Cudy AP1300 Outdoor and OpenWRT: Difference between revisions
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The WR1300 V2 & V3 Firmware should work, right?[[File:Cudy AP1300 Firmware Upgrade Attempt with WR1300 v2 and v3 Intermediary Firmware FAILURE.png|alt=Cudy AP1300 Firmware Upgrade Attempt with WR1300 v2 and v3 Intermediary Firmware FAILURE|thumb|Cudy AP1300 Firmware Upgrade Attempt with WR1300 v2 and v3 Intermediary Firmware FAILURE|none]]Oh, well. Time to break out the screw driver. | The WR1300 V2 & V3 Firmware should work, right?[[File:Cudy AP1300 Firmware Upgrade Attempt with WR1300 v2 and v3 Intermediary Firmware FAILURE.png|alt=Cudy AP1300 Firmware Upgrade Attempt with WR1300 v2 and v3 Intermediary Firmware FAILURE|thumb|Cudy AP1300 Firmware Upgrade Attempt with WR1300 v2 and v3 Intermediary Firmware FAILURE|none]]Oh, well. Time to break out the screw driver. | ||
=== Taking the Dang Thing Apart (with a minor secret) === | ===Taking the Dang Thing Apart (with a minor secret)=== | ||
There are two obvious screws and two not so obvious nuts. | There are two obvious screws and two not so obvious nuts. | ||
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The entire unit should then slide out (with some resistance because of the o-rings around the RP-SMA Connector brass threads (PS: Don't loose them) | The entire unit should then slide out (with some resistance because of the o-rings around the RP-SMA Connector brass threads (PS: Don't loose them) | ||
=== Upgrading the Firmware === | ===Upgrading the Firmware=== | ||
In the same fashion as the Cudy AP3000 Indoor, the Pin Hole Headers for TTL / Serial communication is covered by the heatsink. No big deal, use the special devices noted in this article: [[Cudy AP3000 Indoor AKA Jupiter 2 and OpenWRT|Cudy AP3000 Indoor AKA Jupiter 2 and OpenWRT - Wiki.TerraBase.info]] Otherwise, unscrew the heatsink, solder in some pins on the bottom of the PCB so the heatsink can go back in place, then after programming be prepared to maybe trim them, but odds are they'll fit into the enclosure. | In the same fashion as the Cudy AP3000 Indoor, the Pin Hole Headers for TTL / Serial communication is covered by the heatsink. No big deal, use the special devices noted in this article: [[Cudy AP3000 Indoor AKA Jupiter 2 and OpenWRT|Cudy AP3000 Indoor AKA Jupiter 2 and OpenWRT - Wiki.TerraBase.info]] Otherwise, unscrew the heatsink, solder in some pins on the bottom of the PCB so the heatsink can go back in place, then after programming be prepared to maybe trim them, but odds are they'll fit into the enclosure. | ||
[[File:Cudy AP1300 Pin Headers under Heatsink.jpg|alt=Cudy AP1300 Pin Headers under Heatsink|none|thumb|Cudy AP1300 Pin Headers under Heatsink]] | [[File:Cudy AP1300 Pin Headers under Heatsink.jpg|alt=Cudy AP1300 Pin Headers under Heatsink|none|thumb|Cudy AP1300 Pin Headers under Heatsink]] | ||
Pins left to right, with the RP-SMA Connectors to the right and the Ethernet Jack to the left; | Pins left to right, with the RP-SMA Connectors to the right and the Ethernet Jack to the left; | ||
* TX | *TX | ||
* RX | *RX | ||
* GND | *GND | ||
* 3.3 + Volts | *3.3 + Volts | ||
== ...as of 04.2025 NO Solution. U-Boot is hamstrung in that all it will do is TFTP a recovery file named recovery.bin and will attempt to 'install' that. InitRAMFS files don't load or run AND the TTL / Serial connection is wonky as all heck, just cannot predict its functionality, it vacillates between working, printing gibberish, or doing nothing at all. == | |||