Cudy AP1300 Outdoor and OpenWRT: Difference between revisions

Line 42:

</syntaxhighlight>Wow, in a rare lucid moment for ChatGPT creates what seems to be something that passes for factual and accurate. Double checking it manually confirms it.

=== Where's the Firmware? ===

===Where's the Firmware?===

Nope (seems like it should be though): https://mirror-03.infra.openwrt.org/releases/24.10.0/targets/mediatek/

Line 49:

Historical Note: RAMIPS = Ralink, which was the name of the entity before MediaTek bought it.

=== Wait! What about the "Intermediary Firmware" that Cudy makes? ===

===Wait! What about the "Intermediary Firmware" that Cudy makes? That should make upgrading to OpenWRT firmware easy!===

The WR1300 V2 & V3 Firmware should work, right?

The WR1300 V2 & V3 Firmware should work, right?[[File:Cudy AP1300 Firmware Upgrade Attempt with WR1300 v2 and v3 Intermediary Firmware FAILURE.png|alt=Cudy AP1300 Firmware Upgrade Attempt with WR1300 v2 and v3 Intermediary Firmware FAILURE|thumb|Cudy AP1300 Firmware Upgrade Attempt with WR1300 v2 and v3 Intermediary Firmware FAILURE|none]]Oh, well. Time to break out the screw driver.

[[File:Cudy AP1300 Firmware Upgrade Attempt with WR1300 v2 and v3 Intermediary Firmware FAILURE.png|alt=Cudy AP1300 Firmware Upgrade Attempt with WR1300 v2 and v3 Intermediary Firmware FAILURE~~|left~~|thumb|Cudy AP1300 Firmware Upgrade Attempt with WR1300 v2 and v3 Intermediary Firmware FAILURE]]

=== Taking the Dang Thing Apart (with a minor secret) ===

There are two obvious screws and two not so obvious nuts.

The "nuts' are used to secure the RP-SMA Threaded Connectors at the top of the device. They're covered by white 'doughnut stickers'. Peel those off and unscrew the brass 'slotted nuts'.

[[File:Cudy AP1300 RPSMA Slotted Nuts Covered by Doughnut Stickers.jpg|alt=Cudy AP1300 RPSMA Slotted Nuts Covered by Doughnut Stickers|none|thumb|Cudy AP1300 RPSMA Slotted Nuts Covered by Doughnut Stickers]]

The entire unit should then slide out (with some resistance because of the o-rings around the RP-SMA Connector brass threads (PS: Don't loose them)

=== Upgrading the Firmware ===

In the same fashion as the Cudy AP3000 Indoor, the Pin Hole Headers for TTL / Serial communication is covered by the heatsink. No big deal, use the special devices noted in this article: [[Cudy AP3000 Indoor AKA Jupiter 2 and OpenWRT|Cudy AP3000 Indoor AKA Jupiter 2 and OpenWRT - Wiki.TerraBase.info]] Otherwise, unscrew the heatsink, solder in some pins on the bottom of the PCB so the heatsink can go back in place, then after programming be prepared to maybe trim them, but odds are they'll fit into the enclosure.

[[File:Cudy AP1300 Pin Headers under Heatsink.jpg|alt=Cudy AP1300 Pin Headers under Heatsink|none|thumb|Cudy AP1300 Pin Headers under Heatsink]]

Pins left to right, with the RP-SMA Connectors to the right and the Ethernet Jack to the left;

* TX

* RX

* GND

* 3.3 + Volts

<br />

@@ Line 42: / Line 42: @@
 </syntaxhighlight>Wow, in a rare lucid moment for ChatGPT creates what seems to be something that passes for factual and accurate.  Double checking it manually confirms it.
-=== Where's the Firmware? ===
+===Where's the Firmware?===
 Nope (seems like it should be though): https://mirror-03.infra.openwrt.org/releases/24.10.0/targets/mediatek/
@@ Line 49: / Line 49: @@
 Historical Note: RAMIPS = Ralink, which was the name of the entity before MediaTek bought it.
-=== Wait!  What about the "Intermediary Firmware" that Cudy makes? ===
+===Wait!  What about the "Intermediary Firmware" that Cudy makes?  That should make upgrading to OpenWRT firmware easy!===
-The WR1300 V2 & V3 Firmware should work, right?
+The WR1300 V2 & V3 Firmware should work, right?[[File:Cudy AP1300 Firmware Upgrade Attempt with WR1300 v2 and v3 Intermediary Firmware FAILURE.png|alt=Cudy AP1300 Firmware Upgrade Attempt with WR1300 v2 and v3 Intermediary Firmware FAILURE|thumb|Cudy AP1300 Firmware Upgrade Attempt with WR1300 v2 and v3 Intermediary Firmware FAILURE|none]]Oh, well.  Time to break out the screw driver.
-[[File:Cudy AP1300 Firmware Upgrade Attempt with WR1300 v2 and v3 Intermediary Firmware FAILURE.png|alt=Cudy AP1300 Firmware Upgrade Attempt with WR1300 v2 and v3 Intermediary Firmware FAILURE|left|thumb|Cudy AP1300 Firmware Upgrade Attempt with WR1300 v2 and v3 Intermediary Firmware FAILURE]]
+=== Taking the Dang Thing Apart (with a minor secret) ===
+There are two obvious screws and two not so obvious nuts.
+The "nuts' are used to secure the RP-SMA Threaded Connectors at the top of the device.  They're covered by white 'doughnut stickers'.  Peel those off and unscrew the brass 'slotted nuts'.
+[[File:Cudy AP1300 RPSMA Slotted Nuts Covered by Doughnut Stickers.jpg|alt=Cudy AP1300 RPSMA Slotted Nuts Covered by Doughnut Stickers|none|thumb|Cudy AP1300 RPSMA Slotted Nuts Covered by Doughnut Stickers]]
+The entire unit should then slide out (with some resistance because of the o-rings around the RP-SMA Connector brass threads (PS: Don't loose them)
+=== Upgrading the Firmware ===
+In the same fashion as the Cudy AP3000 Indoor, the Pin Hole Headers for TTL / Serial communication is covered by the heatsink.  No big deal, use the special devices noted in this article: [[Cudy AP3000 Indoor AKA Jupiter 2 and OpenWRT|Cudy AP3000 Indoor AKA Jupiter 2 and OpenWRT - Wiki.TerraBase.info]]  Otherwise, unscrew the heatsink, solder in some pins on the bottom of the PCB so the heatsink can go back in place, then after programming be prepared to maybe trim them, but odds are they'll fit into the enclosure.
+[[File:Cudy AP1300 Pin Headers under Heatsink.jpg|alt=Cudy AP1300 Pin Headers under Heatsink|none|thumb|Cudy AP1300 Pin Headers under Heatsink]]
+Pins left to right, with the RP-SMA Connectors to the right and the Ethernet Jack to the left;
+* TX
+* RX
+* GND
+* 3.3 + Volts
+<br />