Difference between revisions of "Serial TTL Cable and Connectors"

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*Select components that will fit inside of the router chassis
*Select components that will fit inside of the router chassis
*Try and do it without any soldering needed
*Try and do it without any soldering needed
=== Big WARNING ===
When hooking up all of the below stuff, don't connect any of the power connectors / wires between the Serial / TTL device and the router.  Each of them supply their own power.  Only the data lines need to be connected.  The ground is fine too (but technically isn't a ground, just negative).


===The Components===
===The Components===
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This was the smallest one that came with an enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072K3Z3TL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1<nowiki/>(Titled: DSD TECH USB to TTL Serial Converter CP2102 with 4 PIN Dupont Cable Compatible with Windows 7,8,10,Linux,Mac OSX )  This one was great too and would have been better, but availability was questionable: https://www.sunrom.com/p/usb-ttl-uart-module-ftdi-ft230x  Others like this were small, but didn't have any enclosure (one could get a big piece of shrink wrap and heat it on): https://www.amazon.com/IZOKEE-CP2102-Converter-Adapter-Downloader/dp/B07D6LLX19/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=ttl+serial&qid=1633377342&sr=8-8<nowiki/>Yet others were also small, had plastic shielding around the electronics, but used an oddball chipset (will test): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T1XR9FT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This was the smallest one that came with an enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072K3Z3TL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1<nowiki/>(Titled: DSD TECH USB to TTL Serial Converter CP2102 with 4 PIN Dupont Cable Compatible with Windows 7,8,10,Linux,Mac OSX )  This one was great too and would have been better, but availability was questionable: https://www.sunrom.com/p/usb-ttl-uart-module-ftdi-ft230x  Others like this were small, but didn't have any enclosure (one could get a big piece of shrink wrap and heat it on): https://www.amazon.com/IZOKEE-CP2102-Converter-Adapter-Downloader/dp/B07D6LLX19/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=ttl+serial&qid=1633377342&sr=8-8<nowiki/>Yet others were also small, had plastic shielding around the electronics, but used an oddball chipset (will test): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T1XR9FT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


=== Physical Construction ===
===Physical Construction===
A hole will need to be cut into the side of the router (left side as one is facing the router is the only viable spot, given the arrangement of internal components.  A simple rectangular hole will suffice to slide in the USB Type B connector.  The above noted connector will just squeeze in and clear an internal heat sink if mount immediately in front of the antenna on the left side of the router.  Remember to make sure to cut the hole far enough away from the antenna to allow for the mounting screw on that side.  Also make the hole as close to the top as possible to clear the system board.  In some cases, due to sloppy manufacturing, the heatsink on that side might be glued down a bit too close to the side, which will require careful removal and repositioning.
A hole will need to be cut into the side of the router (left side as one is facing the router is the only viable spot, given the arrangement of internal components.  A simple rectangular hole will suffice to slide in the USB Type B connector.  The above noted connector will just squeeze in and clear an internal heat sink if mount immediately in front of the antenna on the left side of the router.  Remember to make sure to cut the hole far enough away from the antenna to allow for the mounting screw on that side.  Also make the hole as close to the top as possible to clear the system board.  In some cases, due to sloppy manufacturing, the heatsink on that side might be glued down a bit too close to the side, which will require careful removal and repositioning.

Revision as of 15:50, 4 October 2021

After a couple of years of on and off searching, here is the best (so far) method that's been found to conveniently create an external connector for console connectivity to the Linksys WRT / AC Series of Routers.

There were several objectives (beyond the obvious one of provide console access)

  • Make it convenient. IE, a USB type B jack similar to most any other USB 2.0 device (printers, scanners, etc.)
  • AND have it so the jack looks like it's part of the router instead of a "hack" job.
  • Select components that will fit inside of the router chassis
  • Try and do it without any soldering needed

Big WARNING

When hooking up all of the below stuff, don't connect any of the power connectors / wires between the Serial / TTL device and the router. Each of them supply their own power. Only the data lines need to be connected. The ground is fine too (but technically isn't a ground, just negative).

The Components

External USB Type B Female Jack / Receptacle

There are several choices available with various connectors and such on the other end, mount types, etc. But the ideal one has a USB Type A Female Jack / Receptacle and a short cable.

USB Type B Female Jack

As of late 2021 only one vendor was located that was actually still selling the product instead of just listing it and showing it as out of stock: https://www.ebay.com/itm/174285030878(Titled: USB A Female Jack to USB 2.0 B Female Socket Panel Mount Extension Cable)

JST-PH 2.0mm 6 Pin Connector to 2.54 mm "Breadboard" Connector

Keep in mind, not all of the cables will be used. The rest can be removed (and rearranged). The only vendor found was via Ali Express (nothing on eBay, etc.): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32968403143.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.dcd44c4dMgxmS7 (Titled: 20CM 50CM 1M 24AWG JST-PH 2.0mm to Dupont 2.54mm 6P Cable Female black connector wire harness), the 20cm size being sufficiently long.

TTL to Breadboard


USB Serial to TTL Adapter

Again, there are lots of choices available. But finding one that will connect the two selected cables reduces the field. That leave several remaining, but smaller is better. And don't get one with a Prolific Serial chipset as those don't play well with Windows 10, etc. (IE, it's an older chipset).

USB to TTL


This was the smallest one that came with an enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072K3Z3TL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1(Titled: DSD TECH USB to TTL Serial Converter CP2102 with 4 PIN Dupont Cable Compatible with Windows 7,8,10,Linux,Mac OSX ) This one was great too and would have been better, but availability was questionable: https://www.sunrom.com/p/usb-ttl-uart-module-ftdi-ft230x Others like this were small, but didn't have any enclosure (one could get a big piece of shrink wrap and heat it on): https://www.amazon.com/IZOKEE-CP2102-Converter-Adapter-Downloader/dp/B07D6LLX19/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=ttl+serial&qid=1633377342&sr=8-8Yet others were also small, had plastic shielding around the electronics, but used an oddball chipset (will test): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T1XR9FT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Physical Construction

A hole will need to be cut into the side of the router (left side as one is facing the router is the only viable spot, given the arrangement of internal components. A simple rectangular hole will suffice to slide in the USB Type B connector. The above noted connector will just squeeze in and clear an internal heat sink if mount immediately in front of the antenna on the left side of the router. Remember to make sure to cut the hole far enough away from the antenna to allow for the mounting screw on that side. Also make the hole as close to the top as possible to clear the system board. In some cases, due to sloppy manufacturing, the heatsink on that side might be glued down a bit too close to the side, which will require careful removal and repositioning.