Difference between revisions of "Serial TTL Cable and Connectors"

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*Select components that will fit inside of the router chassis
*Select components that will fit inside of the router chassis
*Try and do it without any soldering needed
*Try and do it without any soldering needed
=== Big WARNING ===
When hooking up all of the below stuff, don't connect any of the power connectors / wires between the Serial / TTL device and the router.  Each of them supply their own power.  Only the data lines need to be connected.  The ground is fine too (but technically isn't a ground, just negative).


===The Components===
===The Components===
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This was the smallest one that came with an enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072K3Z3TL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1<nowiki/>(Titled: DSD TECH USB to TTL Serial Converter CP2102 with 4 PIN Dupont Cable Compatible with Windows 7,8,10,Linux,Mac OSX )  This one was great too and would have been better, but availability was questionable: https://www.sunrom.com/p/usb-ttl-uart-module-ftdi-ft230x  Others like this were small, but didn't have any enclosure (one could get a big piece of shrink wrap and heat it on): https://www.amazon.com/IZOKEE-CP2102-Converter-Adapter-Downloader/dp/B07D6LLX19/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=ttl+serial&qid=1633377342&sr=8-8<nowiki/>Yet others were also small, had plastic shielding around the electronics, but used an oddball chipset (will test): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T1XR9FT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This was the smallest one that came with an enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072K3Z3TL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1<nowiki/>(Titled: DSD TECH USB to TTL Serial Converter CP2102 with 4 PIN Dupont Cable Compatible with Windows 7,8,10,Linux,Mac OSX )  This one was great too and would have been better, but availability was questionable: https://www.sunrom.com/p/usb-ttl-uart-module-ftdi-ft230x  Others like this were small, but didn't have any enclosure (one could get a big piece of shrink wrap and heat it on): https://www.amazon.com/IZOKEE-CP2102-Converter-Adapter-Downloader/dp/B07D6LLX19/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=ttl+serial&qid=1633377342&sr=8-8<nowiki/>Yet others were also small, had plastic shielding around the electronics, but used an oddball chipset (will test): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T1XR9FT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


=== Physical Construction ===
===Physical Construction===
A hole will need to be cut into the side of the router (left side as one is facing the router is the only viable spot, given the arrangement of internal components.  A simple rectangular hole will suffice to slide in the USB Type B connector.  The above noted connector will just squeeze in and clear an internal heat sink if mount immediately in front of the antenna on the left side of the router.  Remember to make sure to cut the hole far enough away from the antenna to allow for the mounting screw on that side.  Also make the hole as close to the top as possible to clear the system board.  In some cases, due to sloppy manufacturing, the heatsink on that side might be glued down a bit too close to the side, which will require careful removal and repositioning.
A hole will need to be cut into the side of the router (left side as one is facing the router is the only viable spot, given the arrangement of internal components.  A simple rectangular hole will suffice to slide in the USB Type B connector.  The above noted connector will just squeeze in and clear an internal heat sink if mount immediately in front of the antenna on the left side of the router.  Remember to make sure to cut the hole far enough away from the antenna to allow for the mounting screw on that side.  Also make the hole as close to the top as possible to clear the system board.  In some cases, due to sloppy manufacturing, the heatsink on that side might be glued down a bit too close to the side, which will require careful removal and repositioning.